Jesús Barquín: Chameleonic nose now refined and complex, then oxidative and tired. The palate is savory and well defined; spicy, umami; good length. 17

Simon Field: Mature crepuscular color, hint of autumn at the rim. Ancient evenings. Nose of charcuterie and malt; palate quite spirity, the volatility has ceded to a pleasing harmony, with the sweet and the savory in perfect counterpoint. 19

Jancis Robinson: Dense, lively ruby. Very rich, dense, flattering, bumptious wine, with lots of fruit—rather wild, untamed fruit. Dry but not drying finish. A wine with punch by any measure. Very distinctive—could not be anything other than Rioja! Just starting to dry out. But there is vibrancy here. Long. Lots of acidity but good fruit, too. Drink 1980–2010. 18