Tim Atkin: Mature garnet, brick red color. Lovely smoky, fireside nose. Not over-the-top, well balanced. Sweet, aromatic oak, good acidity, medium-bodied, good freshness and length. Harmonious, elegant, fresh acid, leafy, gamey, complex. Intermediate. 18

Jesús Barquín: Medium cherry with brick rim. A serious, classic wine, full of finesse and very enjoyable, pointing to the best Riojan tradition. Long, with a sweetish hint of cherry liqueur that is very persistent. Traditional. 17.5

Marcel Orford-Williams: Good color. Good flavor. Lovely Rioja complexity. Lacks middle though, and lacks a little class. Very good nonetheless. Old-style. 15