Tim Atkin: Mature color. Very traditional in style. Lots of oak, but it’s as if the oak had been grafted onto the wine. The sort of thing that would appeal to traditionalists, but this is oak-driven to me, a confection that needs more fruit weight. Dry finish, with a touch of volatility. Traditional. 10

Jesús Barquín: Medium ruby with a brick-red rim. Delicious and decidedly classic nose of orange peel and fine leather, while the palate is fresh, fleshy, and round. The lively finish invites another glass. This is an excellent example of the best that Rioja can contribute to the wine world. Traditional. 18

Marcel Orford-Williams: Lovely burnished patina. Lovely nose. Sweet. Full flavor and rich. Splendid indeed, with a gorgeous lingering finish. This is the real thing. Old-style. 19