Jesús Barquín: Iodine-like and maritime in the nose, with an odd nose of sea urchin. Refined and elegant mouthfeel, with firm tannin. A solidly built wine, clearly related to the 1973, slightly underneath it. 16.5

Simon Field: Garnet color, confident at core and rim; nose of bitter chocolate, cloves, and herbs. Palate meaty, dense, and quite rich; appears to have aged with real dignity; good length and firm powdery tannins. 17

Jancis Robinson: Mid-healthy ruby. First vintage of this wine. Quite savory and focused but not much lift or grace. Solid, drying minerality. Drink 1985–2005. 17