Jesús Barquín: Smoky meat aromas, a Grenache air, and iodine notes. The palate is tighter and leaner, with a cold weather feel. The finish is marked again by the maritime and iodine notes. 17

Simon Field: Slightly muddled color—not completely clean. Slightly tired, bruised-apple nose; a touch malty, a little vegetal. Tired and weakening. Second bottle cleaner, fuller of flavor; palate drying a shade; quite a firm finish, with more strawberry fruit, hints of orange peel and spice, and a stronger finish. Mark for second wine. 15.5

Jancis Robinson: Second bottle: Paler and more orange. Clean nose. But it is still a little decayed on the palate. Drying out. 1985–2010. 16.5