Jesús Barquín: Slightly closed nose: caramel, coconut, not very expressive initially, but it does open up with time and air. Spiced. The palate is possibly more expressive but also less elegant, light-bodied, with hints of raw meat and underbrush. Slightly drying finish where oak is evident. Pretty much classic. 15.5

Simon Field: Evolved of color and nose; slightly muddy; hints of herb and seaweed; palate is quite delicate, the fruit close to moribund and rather foursquare, but then redeemed by a hint of sweetness at back. Feminine charm beguiles after playing hard to get. 16.5

Jancis Robinson: Bright ruby. Strongly furry, animal notes. Very firm attack. Confident and structured. Still quite youthful. Racy and refined. A bit of a racehorse. Still some tannin(!) but lots of fruit, too. Definitely needs food and has admirable vitality. Reasonably appetizing but a little sweet and drying on the end. Drink 2000–20. 17