Andrew Jefford: Deep walnut-red, with a slightly muted cast to it. A little spirit nip again, and a highly mentholated aroma profile, though there is a little truffley richness beneath it and almost an animal quality. Red fruits and raisin fruits beneath. Concentrated, deep, assertive, forceful, gruff. Some gentle tannic textures. I feel the fruit is slightly underdeveloped here, and the fortification seems a little heavy-handed; it doesn’t have the pristine balance and clarity of the best. The alcohol is quite hot and present 13

Richard Mayson: Very slightly cloudy mid-garnet to tawny on the rim; demure, rather dusty aromas. This doesn’t sing from the glass like the other wines in this flight; very rich slightly baked fruit, powerful ripe tannins leading to a dusty finish. A rich well-structured wine that lacks poise and finesse 14 Jancis Robinson: Dark tawny with a pale rim. High VA. Very sweet start and very luscious. Finishes much drier and has some rancio character. Tea-leaf flavors. Racy and quite chewy. Persistent. Drink 2000–20 17