Jesús Barquín: Different, with character, but also difficult to some extent, tight and powerful—though also balanced. Still tight, needing years to show its best. Greatly improved by aeration, it smooths out a little after a couple of hours from opening. I want to trust its potential for development. 16.5

Alex Hunt: A peculiar if quite pleasant aroma of sweet-acrid caramel (like a Cadbury’s Crunchie bar, for those familiar with it). The palate, in contrast, is dry and herbal, with a chewy, even bitter finish. The wine doesn’t really hang together, therefore; it presents contradictions without managing to resolve them. 13.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep, dense black red. A little bit yogurty in aromatic profile; lacks refinement. Generous, slightly vegetal palate, with lots of beefy depths to it. Chunky, muscular—an honest geezer; warming wine for a winter’s night. Good but not great. 13.5