Andrew Jefford: Clear pale walnut. Refined and harmonious aromas, with no palpable spirit presence: sweet fruit grown articulate and chatty with age and taking its ease under a straw hat out in the herb garden among the rue, thyme, mint, and camphor. Great charm. On the palate, by contrast, this spirit is more apparent, and the sweet fruits don’t quite have enough density and unction to support that. Nonetheless, this is still a wine of considerable harmony and grace. The relatively prominent acidity levels are well bonded with the other components, giving the usual peach and apricot a finishing appley freshness. There’s also a welcome touch of rancio and a sense of incipient smokiness. A very good wine 16.5

Richard Mayson: True tawny, turning amber on the rim. Distinctly high-toned—what the Portuguese call vinagrinho, lifting the wine from the glass; rich and smooth, with the lovely weight and texture of age in cask, a touch rustic perhaps but a lovely old wine, now drying out on the finish. Perhaps better as part of a blend than on its own, but surely an old colheita? 17 Jancis Robinson: Greenish tawny. Yellow rim. Rich and sticky. Very mellow and round start and then lively, clean finish, with lots of wood age. Slightly chewy but with lots of interesting vigor. Very sweet, dried-fruit start. Real attack. Drink 2005–25 17.5