Daniel Niepoort was on hand, and he poured this Port for all attendees. Daniel and his brother Marco are both fun, polite, and humble young men—and are the next generation (the sixth) in a talented line of Niepoort winemakers. Both brothers are also disarmingly knowledgeable about wines from around the globe. This Port was taken from wood, where it had been meticulously cared for by the current master blender from the Nogueira family that has worked alongside the Niepoorts since the very beginning of the company in 1842, and put into demijohn in 1972, then bottled in 1995. 1863 was a splendid vintage for Port and Madeira. Rumor has it that Dirk has one final cask of this Port well hidden. Tasted blind, since our brochure listed this Port only as a “mystery wine.” My guess of 1900 Niepoort was way off the target—but that happens early and far more often in Dirk’s presence. Deep amber, mahogany hue, with an apple-green meniscus, offering a clue about this Port’s age. Offering a virtual kaleidoscope of fragrances, such as caramel, orange rind, dried apricot, raisins, and nutty toffee. This Port spent years concentrating in cask, and its sweetness is matched by the intensity of the acidity and remarkably decadent long finish. It is drinking beautifully and may be about as good as wood-aged Port gets. The 1863 remains the oldest Port in the Niepoort cellar. Having had this Port with Dirk on two occasions (including the first time we met in person) in the early years of this century, I knew this would make for the perfect ending to a historic afternoon of Port drinking for all attendees. It did not let us down and showed the other side of the Port coin after nearly six hours of drinking almost nothing other than Vintage Ports! | 98