Nicolas Belfrage: Quite light, with a garnet rim. A gentle and very typical, if not a mind-blowing, wine. Good fruit, acid, and tannin all doing their job, the finish shared between sour cherry and Vintage Port. A very together and attractive wine for drinking now and over the next 10 years. 17

Bruno Besa: Garnet to light tawny, pink rim. Elegant and inviting small-red-fruit nose, with almonds, smoked red meat, violets, and roses. Full-bodied yet fragrant and elegant, with clean fruit and a long, mineral, rosewater-like finish. A classy, super-elegant Barolo. 18.5

Andrew Jefford: Very clear and limpid by comparison with most of its peers. Graceful, perfumed, and enchanting, this is Barolo at its most Burgundian. What’s in the wreathing scents? So much: plum, cherry, cream, semolina, calfskin bindings, straw, a hint of jasmine. Completely lovely scents, so you are almost nervous when you sip, for fear the flavor might betray them. The palate is smooth, soft, open, graceful, seamless, and brocaded, with some of the aromatic complexity noted above, and if you love Burgundy you will probably love this. Those who approach Barolo with a palate schooled on Bordeaux, though, might find the wine a little bit unvital and uneventful, and (for better or worse) my palate is probably in the latter camp. But this is very limpid and elegantly crafted wine. 16.5