Nicolas Belfrage: Some depth of color, not opaque at heart but going there. Floral, almost rose on the nose— mineral rather than fruity. Quite grippy and chewy on the palate, with good concentration but at present a certain center-tongue presence rather than reaching out to the sides. Needs more time. Drink from 2017. 88

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to tawny. Mature and deep black-fruit nose, with smoke, prunes, and Bing cherries, closed yet complex. Mature, full-bodied palate, with layered tannins and a long, clean finish. Rich and open Barolo. 89

Andrew Jefford: Deep clear black-red. Limpid red fruits. Very clean and accessible. Behind the glowing plum, there is some dark chocolate, licorice, and orris root. Deftly drawn, yet nourishing, too: embers in the night. Soft, rich, textured, and elemental, with that same glowing, ember-like quality that the nose suggested. All of the aromatic and flavor elements are pristine, here: fine old-wood aging. A box of resonances. Lingers on the tongue. An outstanding wine, combining grace, amplitude, and profundity. All it needs is a winter’s night... 94