Nicolas Belfrage: Deep, virtually opaque: very deep. Very pronounced nose of small red and black fruits, with herbal notes. A real mouthful of wine, oodles of fruit, tannin, and acidity; plenty of structure and the conditions for a great bottle, if not in the traditional mold. Traditionalists (among whom I count myself) may not agree, but this is a very fine modern Barolo. Drink from 2017 and for decades. 18

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet core to lively ruby, tawny rim. A little rustic and a touch unclean on the nose. Fairly green on the palate, considering the vintage. 14.5

Andrew Jefford: Dark, dense black red, with some lingering opacity. Forceful and exciting scents, if perhaps just a little bit stewy and confined at this stage, as if the wine was longing for a day in a decanter. After time in the glass, it begins to open up with an incense-like spice freight to it. Dense, deep, rich, spicy, and alluring on the palate, with great length and power and aromatic amplitude. An outstanding wine, which certainly needs time to resolve its forces, but the purity of fruit, density, overall harmony, and texture are all supremely attractive. If this is “new style,” it is really very well done. The score could go higher with time. 16