SF | Soft nacre going on amber, a hint of nectarine, too; most appealing translucence. Notes of mango, guava, and plum on the nose, a whiff of distant woodsmoke, incense almost, candied peel, too, or is it pith. Hints of toffee-apple on the palate; the spirit a little overbearing at the moment, the acidity cutting a fine shard nonetheless. A pleasing, precocious example, as refreshing as Port is ever likely to be. 87
AJ | A pretty pale amber; very translucent, with copper-pink glints. Sweetly enticing scents of barley-sugar sticks and dried flowers; forthcoming. The aromas swiftly modulate in the glass toward something deeper and more settled. Tangy, bright flavors; a nougatine sweetness; quiet fruits. Quite “warm” and young. 2024–27. 85
RM | Lovely, orange-gold color. Gentle, spirited, apricot fruit on the nose, though not very distinctive. Soft, slightly spicy, dried-apricot fruit on the palate, too, with a soft, apricot-jam finish. Good but lacking verve. 84