Nicolas Belfrage: Medium depth. Oniony, somewhat garlic nose, redeemed by some very ripe 2011-type cherry-berry fruit in the mouth. Good followthrough and a longish finish. 89

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to tawny rim. Very intense redfruit nose, an almost aggressive animal character. Broad, rich, mature black- and red-fruit palate, fairly long and clean. 86

Andrew Jefford: Deep clear black-red. Warm, full, a touch stewy but you can’t fault its generosity. On the palate, this is lush, full, generous, unleashing a warm, resonant payload of flavor. It’s not the most refined and poised wine on the table, but there is so much here to enjoy that it would be churlish to mark it down. A bottle to open relatively soon, to splash into a decanter and to drink uninhibitedly. 85