Stephen Brook: Discreet ripe-grapefruit nose, not very expressive now. Lean, precise, concentrated, poised, with fruit and acidity in balance. Piquant and almost sherbetty, which refreshes the finish. Has finesse, but perhaps lacks a little persistence on the finish. 17.5

Margaret Rand: Good ripe acidity, appley. Ripe but not lush; soft-edged (in spite of the acidity) but not creamy. Slightly Golden Delicious rather than the Cox’s of the Mosel. 15

Jancis Robinson: Big and bold on the nose, with a suggestion of both smoked meat and Granny Smith apples. Then excellent acidity and fine build on the palate with some astringency on the finish. This is a confident wine that needs time. Sherbet on the finish. 2012–22. 17.5