Stephen Brook: Delicate floral nose, blossom, apricots. Rich and concentrated, with rather strident acidity and unusual spice and vigor. It’s not refined, but it has a lot of energy that counters the evident sweetness. Give it eight years, though. 17

Margaret Rand: Granny Smith nose; palate more sweet than nose suggests. Very ripe Granny Smith fruit, sweet but not lush, and with a firm acidity underpinning the sweetness. Well balanced, with a long, powerful finish. 16.5

Jancis Robinson: Pinched, heavy, inexpressive nose with a curious metallic streak running through the palate and deadening the fruit. A second bottle was fresher and cleaner, but this still has an uncomfortable grip on the finish. Drink 2013–20. 16