Stephen Brook: Closed nose, quite citric. Medium-bodied with remarkable freshness for TBA. A lighter style, but it has finesse and purity; clean, zesty, attractive piquancy. Perhaps it lacks some concentration and complexity now, but the balance is exemplary, as is the length, and it should evolve well. 18.5

Margaret Rand: Tight nose; super-intense fruit on the palate. Very young, brash, showy. Raisiny fruit. Needs time to settle and give the finesse a chance to show. 16.5

Jancis Robinson: Pale green. Light, racy, delicate, flirtatious. Very clean and zippy. Floral with blossomy top notes. Very marked acidity. Quite high in sulfur, but very confident and clean and soaring away. Acidity dominates for the moment, and this wine needs a lot of time. Lighter weight than some, but beautifully balanced. Long. Drink 2018–30. 18.5