Alison Buchanan: Impenetrable prune in color. Luscious and ripe on both nose and palate, with sublimely graceful ease and flair, opulence married and allied to exuberance. The finish, slightly cropped, just eases back the score. 18

Jesús Barquín: Mahogany. Serious, intense, and well integrated, obviously of great age. Good acidity, complex, coffee, dark chocolate. This is a great wine, maybe only slightly flawed, if at all, by a vaguely hot mouthfeel. 18

Julian Jeffs: Deep color. Rather restrained nose. Highly individualistic and similarly restrained flavor. It is hard to know what to make of this. Good length. 15