Tim Atkin: Ruby/garnet. Still youthful for a 1994, at least in appearance. Leafy, slightly gamey nose, with a touch of white pepper and clove spice. Grenache in evidence here. Very bright acidity, cutting through the gamey fruit sweetness. Mature, complex, savory, multi-dimensional. A lovely old Rioja with real poise and elegance and more tannin than is immediately apparent. Traditional. 18.5

Jesús Barquín: Deep cherry with a bright ruby rim. A great example of a wine that seems clearly conceived to be an intentionally modern wine but that is by now on its way to becoming a classic: good fruit extraction and new oak are evident on the nose, but they are harmoniously blended. Add mellow, supple tannins and solid structure backed by excellent acidity, and there seems to be an even brighter future awaiting this wine. Pleasant orange-peel notes, long and savory. Modern. 18.5

Marcel Orford-Williams: Stewed prunes on the nose. Deep color. Rich, full flavor. Quite meaty. Delicious. Lovely length, with some complexity. Complete. 17