Tim Atkin: Big, big color, dead-fruit wine. Tannic, extracted, high alcohol, zero finesse. Chunky, super-ripe, tannic, slightly dry. Very, very extracted and dry. Could be a Toro. Pruney and slightly baked and volatile. Modern. 8

Jesús Barquín: Deep cherry, almost opaque. Serious, appealing, good fruit, cigar, a wine that is enjoyable right now but promises to grow even more in bottle. The palate is still tight but noble and sufficiently enjoyable. A good Rioja in a radical style that will not appeal to everybody but which should clearly improve further. Modern. 16.5

Marcel Orford-Williams: Full, backward. Some quality, certainly, but not much in the way of drinkability. Blocky, square. New-style, I guess. 13