Nicolas Belfrage: Medium deep. Floral bouquet. A bit pinched on the palate, acid a bit low, sweet fruit not quite coming through. Good type but not a lot of joy. Drink 2015+. 15

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red, almost to the rim. A wonderful symphony of fruits, predominantly red, yet with the uninhibited force of the brass section in the orchestra: like Gevrey-Chambertin on steroids. Some might find it a little brassy, indeed, but my hat’s in the air: There aren’t many comestibles that can smell like this. (There is a little mixed ripeness, to be fair.) On the palate, it is exactly as you’d expect from the aromas: a wonderfully uninhibited performance of super-exuberant fruit generosity. Lovely, abundant, soft-clinging tannins cluster around the edges of the fruit. It’s very exuberant, yet simultaneously very relaxed. Lovely, lovable Barolo. 17.5

Franco Ziliani: Dark, intense ruby color. The nose is rich, complex, full of different “colors”: black pepper, plum, black cherries, blackcurrants, and some leather and chocolate. Very ripe fruit, fleshy, but new oak overwhelms the rest. The tannins are not bitter, but the toastiness has too important a role in the wine. 15