Essi Avellan: Deep cherry-pink color. Smoke-complexed red-berry nose. Loose, fluffy palate lacking firmness and complexity. Clean and pleasant but nothing special. 15

Simon Field: Firm russet color; impressive nose of red fruit and soft herbs and spice. The palate has depth and complexity; a lovely redcurrant-and-mango attack checked skillfully by ripe tannins and a persuasive peroration. 16.5

Tom Stevenson: Pale to medium peach, withatad more pink than peach. The fruit is more stingy than shy, but not quite mean. 14.5