Tim Atkin | Mature, but with some grip and tannins for a 2010. Extra backbone from Graciano or Mazuelo? Complex and savory, with balsamic complexity. | 93

Simon Field | Deep raven-black, ruby red at the rim; nose of charcuterie, late-season apples, and a whisper of black chocolate and tapenade; figs and white pepper, and a firm tannic profile. The tannins dry a little, but there is plenty of gastronomic potential, a little volatility, and an elegant, poised finish. Good to go now! | 91

Andrew Jefford | Very deep black-red, still, and firmly opaque at the core. Dark red-garnet rim. The preserved- plum fruits have some menthol now and some animal warmth, too, but in general the aromas are enticing, fruit-dominated, and expansive: Clean, frank, and inviting. On the palate, the wine is ample, round, still textured, with some cocoa dusting on the fruits: Warm, deep, long, supple, textured, and long. Sumptuous and almost voluptuous older Rioja that has really come into its own. It doesn’t quite have the aromatic refinement, sublimity, and purity of the very best, but it’s an absolute treat to sip and to drink. | 94