Tim Atkin | Fading a little now, with some ginger spice, cinnamon, and oxidation on the nose. This lacks fruit, and there are still slightly firm tannins. But there is some balsamic lift and complexity on the finish. | 89

Simon Field | Meaty red, soft rim, a nose of licorice and garrigue, charcuterie, and woodsmoke. The palate majors more on breadth than length, firm, almost astringent tannic grip threatening to undermine full potential. A finely poised peacock’s tail of a finish reassures as to capacity to age for a few more years. | 90

Andrew Jefford | Dark, saturated black-red: Opaque at the core, with a red rim. This is rather coffee-like and dry, now, riding on its oak somewhat. Deep and searching on the palate, but rather severe and oaky in style here, too. Nonetheless, I am conscious that the purity and concentration of the fruit is remarkable and that oak is an intrinsic part of classic Rioja appeal, so many devotees of the style would love this, I’m sure. It’s very well preserved, too. | 91