Andrew Jefford | Bright lemon gold. Lots of aromatic interest: cologne-fresh, some buttered nuts and fruits, lots of spring bulb and hyacinth, and a touch of emulsion paint, too. Highly allusive and characterful, though just a little bit insistent. All of this is true on the palate, too. Very articulate and aromatically showy wine, but for some reason I don’t wholly trust the aromatics. Perhaps I am at fault here, but they seem to lack resonance and depth, and for fine wine we always look for aromatic subtlety and (precisely) resonance. Nonetheless, an exciting glass of high-quality Riesling and a great discussion wine. | 89

Stephan Reinhardt | This intensely green-yellow Riesling opens with an intense and slatey-flinty bouquet that would most possibly benefit from aeration. Full-bodied, pure, but also rich on the palate, this is a mouth-filling and finely tannic Riesling, with a certain phenolic grip. 2023–35. | 92+

Anthony Rose | Pale lemony green, this is floral and limey, with the faintest hint of Riesling’s diesel-like aromas (but not unpleasant for all that). It prickles gently on the tongue with an appealing salty dry limey fruitiness and that slight diesely note in the background, turning from sweetness through to savory and then finishing on a mouthwateringly tangy dry note, demanding seafood (or else appropriate vegetables). | 94