Bruno Besa | Garnet to tawny, pink rim. Mature, clean, a touch decadent, old-school nose, with complex red-fruit character and cedarwood, earthy undertones. Medium- to full-bodied, rather unbalanced palate, with a slightly vegetal finish. | 88

Andrew Jefford | Dark black-red; clear. Rather old-style, developed fruit, with a faint reediness to it, though there is some cream and oatmeal here to add charm; polish, too. Dense and long, driving, super- concentrated, and very authoritative; clearly a wine of real ambition and deep tradition. There’s great depth and length and drive here. The fruits are not in any sense “fresh” but are refined and reserved. Deep but very soft and cellar-refined tannins, and relatively dry, submissive, but carefully calibrated acidity. Some might find the style a little testing, but it is a magnificent wine by any measure, and it would work very well gastronomically. The old school lives on. | 91

Anthony Rose | Medium ruby; savory, sweetish red fruit, with hefty extraction that pulls at the fruit and says, no, you’re not all about fruit, even if the red-fruits middle on the palate is juicy and flavorsome enough, but you’re about structure and a wine that must go with food—robust food, at that. | 91