Neil Beckett | An emblematic cuvée here since the days of Laurent's grandfather, from the smallest of the Gevrey grands crus. There is one precious pièce of this very special wine, élevé, along with some other top cuvées, in the cellar under the repurchased family property, Château de Charmont. Medium- deep ruby, a natural luster. A fabulous scent, captivating in its delicacy and intricacy, which, with its subtle whiffs of cherry and stone, seems to support both the least and the most likely theories of the origins of the name (in the estimable view of Jasper Morris MW): griotte cherries (from the former presence of cherry trees or the aroma and flavor of cherries often found in the wines) and criotte ("a little bit of chalk"), corrupted to Griotte. There is also an entirely enhancing very light toastiness from the wood, which Laurent describes as "demi-neuf," the barrel having been "softened" by another wine for six months to reduce the influence of the new oak. On the palate, the exhilarating freshness and persistence are as remarkable as the melting softness of the texture, resulting from the exquisite refinement of the tannins. | 95–96