Neil Beckett | An exceptional village wine from four parcels, the barrels included being rigorously selected after being separately vinified (four of the 15 were not deemed worthy). Lemon-gold, intense. Very clean, with well-integrated oak (one new barrel for each parcel), not at all buttery but invitingly rich. Thanks to the balanced acidity, the palate is creamy but not at all heavy, and the light agrumes bitterness gives a refreshing twist to the long finish. | 90–91