Neil Beckett | A fully worthy wine, from a single parcel high in the cooler En Charlemagne sector, which was wholly helpful this warm vintage. Aromatically discreet, the oak integrating seamlessly (one of the three pièces was new), with very clean, freshly ripe yellow fruit, and a very light whiff of white pepper: lovely detail and finesse. An exceptionally fine palate, too: at once effortless and enigmatic, not explosive or imposing, still with grand cru intensity, but most remarkable for its sheer beauty of flavor, the faintest benign bitterness giving the finish even more interest and length. | 94–95