Ken Gargett tastes the latest cuvées from House of Arras and reflects on the pivotal role the house and its much-admired winemaker Ed Carr have played in the evolution of Australian fizz.
Step back in time to BC, Before Carr, perhaps more commonly known as the late 1980s. The Tasmanian sparkling-wine industry was less than a twinkle in a few optimistic eyes. There were just 46ha (114 acres) of vines. We’re not talking vines to provide fruit for sparkling wine—there were only 46ha in the entire state.
Enter Ed Carr. It didn’t take Ed long to realize that this was a land of immense promise and potential. But it would have to wait. At the time, Australian sparkling wine was more flat than fizz. The history of sparkling wine in this country dates back almost exactly 100 years from that moment—Andrew Caillard MW’s extraordinary Australian Ark more than covers it—to Hans Irvine and his peers. Of course, we also enjoyed that rather idiosyncratic style known then as sparkling Burgundy. It’s still hard to convince overseas friends what a joy it can be, but that is definitely a story for another day.
While Aussie sparkling wine was already popular locally and taken at least semi-seriously—remember that a young German by the name of Wolf Blass was originally brought here by Kaiser Stuhl to make their sparkling wines—it might be fair to say that any resemblance to the great sparkling wines of the world, especially Champagne, was purely coincidental. The grape varieties used included Ondenc, Trebbiano, and a veritable fruit salad of has-been or never-were grapes. No one was going to waste the good stuff on fizz. Besides, it was still relatively early days for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in this country. Pinot Meunier was nothing more than a trivia question. Bizarrely, the name that would be best known for easy-drinking simple fizz from Australia today is surely Yellowglen. And yet it began life as an attempt to raise the standard of Australian sparkling to unprecedented levels.
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In 1971, Ian Home, a lover of Champagne, planted 12ha (30 acres) of premium grape varieties southwest of Ballarat in Victoria and, in so doing, lit the fizz fuse. While Yellowglen was swallowed up, several times by the large corporates, and became the very antithesis of its original intent, others picked up the baton. The name Yellowglen referred to an 1858 gold mine on the property, and it certainly became a gold mine for subsequent owners.
In the early ’80s, a mild-mannered Englishman named Ed Carr, born on the Isle of Wight, was working as a microbiologist for the Seaview Group in McLaren Vale, after a stint in the dairy industry. Ed moved to Adelaide in the early 1960s with his parents, just a youngster. Penfolds took over Seaview in 1986, and Ed was promoted to the position of sparkling-wine maker, working there until the chief winemakers at BRL Hardy, as it was then, Tim James and Peter Dawson (who now have their own Dawson James estate in Tasmania) offered Ed a new position. He accepted in January 1994. Ed had already ascertained the quality of the fruit in Tasmania and, in 1995, released their first Tasmanian fizz, under the Sir James label. Sir James Hardy, part of the family, was a world-famous yachtsman, among his many other achievements. Of course, Ed was not alone in discovering just how scintillating the best fruit from the Apple Isle was for sparkling wine. Other producers have emerged since and continue to do so.
Lowering dosage, raising reserves
In 1995, BRL Hardy—which seems to have been forever engaged in some form of corporate two-step and has gone through more incarnations than Doctor Who—set up a new entity in-house to make sparkling wine from Tasmania. (It is still actually made at the Tintara Winery in South Australia, but the grapes are all Tassie.) Called House of Arras—arras meaning “intricate tapestry”—it celebrates its 30th anniversary this year. Basically, this was Ed’s brief, the reason he was poached from Penfolds. While it has certainly encountered difficulties over that time, Ed Carr has remained at the helm. It seems to like flying under the radar but at the same time has established itself as the reference point for great Australian sparkling wine, and Ed has a well-deserved reputation as Australia’s finest-ever maker of sparkling wine. House of Arras is now part of the DMG Fine Wine/Handpicked Wine group, and with undreamed-of levels of support, Ed has never been happier. We’d be more likely to hear King Charles telling the world that his mother made a mess of things, than we would be to hear Ed criticize his former employers, but it is nevertheless clear that he is a very relieved winemaker. The man can be infuriatingly humble.
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In 1999, the first Arras wine was released. A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, it would become the Grand Vintage. The response was certainly very positive, at least as far as the quality. The problem was that it was priced at $50 a bottle—hefty in those days. One critic described it as “extremely radical,” and there would not have been an article that didn’t mention that the price meant it was competing with Champagne. The Grand Vintage has continued as the flag-bearer in many respects, the only vintages missed being 2010, 2011, and 2012, all of which might best be described as difficult years for reasons beyond their control. (Corporate interference is a nice way of putting it.) The first Blanc de Blancs was the 2001 and the first Rosé, 2004. The Non-Vintage Brut Elite was also first released in 2004. The inaugural Late Disgorged was the 1998, released in 2010 with a price tag of $150. Again, competing with Champagne was the general refrain. The Prestige wine is the EJ Carr Late Disgorged—an accolade that could not be more deserved.
The program that began with these releases remains largely in place today. The Non-Vintage will spend a minimum of four years on lees, the Grand Vintage seven years, and the Prestige range more than ten. Sometimes, the Prestige releases enjoy a considerably longer period—2006 is the current vintage. After disgorgement, the wines will be given at least six months in the cellar. Ed believes that the sweet spot then comes three to four years later. They have done extensive testing of closures, and Ed is firmly convinced that quality cork is the way to go. That said, they are trialing agrafe corks. Over the years, the dosage has been reduced a little, and 3g/l is now the norm. Oak was introduced back in 2007, in small quantities, for some of the range, and Ed found that this made even lower dosage levels possible. Tasmania may still be relatively small in terms of area under vine—now nearly 4,000ha (10,000 acres), with almost half that devoted to sparkling wine—but it provides a range of different terroirs, which allows Ed plenty of scope for experimentation and blending. Arras owns a couple of vineyards, leases others, and has a loyal band of growers. One thing that Ed quickly discovered was that the fruit from Tasmania has wonderful longevity.
The future? They aim to increase volume but not at the cost of quality, and will maintain stocks sufficient for future Prestige releases. They will also continue to build reserve stocks for Brut Elite. Annual production is now around 250,000 bottles, but of course the sparkling game moves at a snail’s pace when it comes to increasing stock levels. Fortunately, the new owners are able and willing to play the long game.
The problem with attempting to stay under the radar is that Ed is continually recognized around the world for his work. He and the wines enjoy more bling than any rapper could dream of: The trophies and medals number in the hundreds. He was the first winemaker not from Champagne to receive the Lifetime Achievement Award at the Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships. Tom Stevenson and Essi Avellan MW, in their World Encyclopedia of Champagne & Sparkling Wine, dubbed Arras “the Krug of Australian sparkling wine.” Ed was named International Wine Challenge Sparkling Winemaker of the Year in 2024, the first Australian and only the second non-Champagne winemaker to receive the title. (Nyetimber’s Cherie Spriggs won in 2018.)
The good news is that Ed Carr and his team at House of Arras are only just getting started.
Tasting
2017 Blanc de Blancs (A$136)
For Tasmanian sparkling wine, 2017 is proving to be a superb vintage. The fruit for this cuvée is sourced from vineyards on the East Coast, Derwent Valley, and Coal River Valley, with fermentation in stainless steel; 5.5% is fermented in French oak, to add to the complexity. 100% malolactic fermentation and seven years on lees. The dosage is typically low for all the 2017 Vintage wines, at around 3g/l.
Elegance personified, this is clean, fresh, bright, and pristine, with floral and citrus aromas supported by oyster-shell notes and hints of freshly baked croissants. While the nose gives the impression of a most ethereal style, there is serious underlying power on the palate. Hints of grapefruit emerge toward the finish. An absolutely exquisite example of the blanc de blancs style, this should have at least a decade ahead of it, quite possibly considerably longer. For me, we can go so far as to say this is one of the very best Australian sparkling wines yet. | 96
2017 Grand Vintage (A$125)
Another cracking sparkler from the stellar 2017 vintage, a blend of 69% Chardonnay and 31% Pinot Noir. This aligns with the style dating right back to the first release from 1995. The fruit is sourced from vineyards on the East Coast, Coal River Valley, Derwent Valley, Pipers River, and Tamar Valley. Fermentation is mostly in stainless steel, plus 6% in French oak. The wine undergoes full malolactic fermentation, with around six to seven years on lees. The dosage is a tick under 3g/l.
The wine is finely balanced, with serious length. Citrus, jasmine, and gentle red-fruit notes are evident on the nose, with touches of almond and fresh toast also apparent. A firm finish, but the wine is one of finesse and focus. Ed talks about the drive that Pinot Noir gives to the wine, and this is certainly evident. Six to ten years of pleasure ahead. | 94
2017 Rosé (A$136)
This is, not surprisingly, very much red-fruit-driven. A thrilling rosé that comfortably competes with many good examples from Champagne—not just in terms of price. The blend is 73% Pinot Noir and 27% Chardonnay, the latter included because Ed believes it enhances the elegance of the wine. The color comes from Pinot Noir that underwent carbonic maceration. The fruit was mostly sourced from the Coal River Valley, with support from the Derwent Valley, Tamar Valley, East Coast, and Pipers Brook. Fermentation is mostly in stainless steel, but again there is a small contribution, 5.5%, from French oak. The wine spent seven years on lees, and the dosage is 3g/l.
The nose is redolent of fresh cherries and rose petals, with hints of Turkish delight. Floral and red-fruit notes are to the fore here. A gentle style but still bright, with juicy acidity, fine balance, and good drive. Notes of raspberries emerge on the palate, which has a lingering finish. This should drink beautifully over the next eight years. | 93
2006 EJ Carr Blanc de Blancs Late Disgorged (A$500)
The 2006 vintage was another superb one for Tasmanian sparkling wine. Much of the attention for this cuvée may focus on what must surely be a record price for an Australian sparkling wine, but that would be a shame, since it is a truly special release. Seventeen years on lees, and only 395 bottles are available. The dosage is a meager 1.5g/l.
Quite a stunning nose, with notes of lemon cream, hazelnuts, fresh brioche, almonds, and grapefruit; balanced, elegant, and amazingly complex. A wine of finesse, with energy and focus, and the intensity is maintained for the full journey. Still extraordinarily youthful. I would defy anyone to guess correctly the age of this wine served blind, and I think most would be lucky to get within a decade. An absolute masterpiece that offers a thrilling future. Add this to your bucket list if you are serious about great Australian wine. If there has been a better bottle of fizz made in this country, I haven’t seen it. | 97
2006 EJ Carr Late Disgorged (A$330)
This was released to celebrate the 30th anniversary of House of Arras, with only 1,566 bottles available. The blend is 66% Chardonnay and 34% Pinot Noir. Dosage is just 1.7g/l, and the wine spent 16 years on the lees—something that would be extraordinary even in Champagne, let alone Tasmania.
Tight, concentrated, and exquisitely balanced on the nose, with notes of hazelnut, citrus, freshly baked bread, jasmine, a flick of red fruits, and the merest whiff of truffle. A delightfully creamy texture, good complexity, and seriously impressive length. Still fresh, this should drink beautifully well into the next decade. A wonderful achievement and a very worthy wine with which to celebrate this impressive anniversary. | 95
