BEAUNE
ALBERT BICHOT
There are five domaines as well as the Beaune-based négociant operation. Given the challenges of the vintage—and no doubt of sourcing good Pinot fruit, especially on the Côte de Nuits—Bichot has done a very good job, but I hope they moved the reds out of barrel soon after I tasted them in December. There was plenty of quality to capture and lots to lose! The wines are light and pretty and can be approached with enjoyment fairly soon.
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Chabiots
Related
Another pretty, red-fruit wine, with a touch more sweetness than the Morey-St-Denis Premier Cru Les Sorbets, but perhaps less energy. 2027–30. 86–87
Morey-St-Denis Premier Cru Les Sorbets
Splashes with juicy, red-berry fruit. Nicely balanced acidity. The tannins have light crunch. There is a pleasant spicy note and an aroma of garden herbs. 2026–30. 86–87
Content from our partners
*Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles
Light-bodied, with a fine and supple texture and a good line. There is light tension and vibrancy. Nice intensity and freshness. A lick of glossy oak plays its part. Well-made. 2027–2032. 86–87
*Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
Straight on the attack and super-direct. This is neatly channeled, tight, and quite piercing. Nicely focused, but quite light on intensity. I hope they move this wine into tank soon, so as not to lose the fragile red-cherry fruit. It’s a pretty, rather than a profound, grand cru, but Latricières should be straight and whistling, so it shows good typicité. 2027–35. 92–93
DOMAINE BOUCHARD PERE ET FILS
“For the team, it was difficult fighting against the disease,” recalls Frédéric Weber. “We sprayed 19 times. We employed two more people just to pluck leaves and aerate the fruit. Veraison was long—it took a month—and very heterogeneous, so we spent a long time tasting berries to find the right ripeness at which to pick,” adds Frédéric, who began the harvest in the Côte de Beaune on September 12 for Pinot Noir and September 17 for Chardonnay. “It was 6ºC [42ºF] in the morning. My hands were blue. We made a selection just for green berries, dried berries, and a little rot. We have a new vibrating sorting table, which helped.” The average yield for Pinot Noir was 25hl/ha and for Chardonnay, 30hl/ha. There is no Echézeaux, which was lost to disease, and Nuits-St-Georges Les Cailles and Clos Vougeot both cropped at 10ha/ah. But on the positive side, Frédéric says, “It proved to us that we can continue to be organic even in a year like this.” Some 30ha (74 acres) are now managed biodynamically.
Bouchard is now concentrated on the domaine wines from the Côte de Beaune. “Pinot Noir was harvested at 12–12.5% potential alcohol,” recalls Frédéric. “We chaptalized, but 1% was enough, added in three parts to help extract the matter and color. I want to respect the identity of the vintage. Malic acidity was 4.2g/l but the tartaric was quite low. There was lots of potassium, because of all the rain and the moisture in the soil, and this decreased the acidity during the fermentation, so reds ended up at pH3.7 and TA at 5–5.5 [as sulfuric].
“It was a challenge to use whole bunches, so we were very careful on the sorting table, and the skins were thin.” Frederic therefore decided on a longer vatting, of 15–20 days, with more pigeage at the beginning but not at the end, so as not to extract too much. The seeds were ripe and some of the stems were lignified, so he did use some.“The alcoholic fermentation was a little longer, which was good for the reds, to extract matter slowly. I prefer to go slowly, with any sugar additions toward the end, just wetting the cap, as the Pinot was very fragile at this time.” He used bio-protection for reds at the beginning of fermentation in order to add less SO2.
“Chardonnay was later maturing, and the yields were higher, so we waited until September 17 for it. The warmer facing side of the fruit was golden.” The average potential alcohol level at harvest was 12%, with 3.5g/l malic acidity and 6–7g/l tartaric. Frédéric put all the grapes on the sorting table, but recalls they were, on the whole, “beautiful.” He did a three-hour press. “I eliminated the first juice and the press. I fined it, and found it was very nice, with a lot of aromatic richness, so I added it back. There was a lot of matter. Key was the lees. Three to four weeks of long, slow fermentation, and the MLF was also very long. A long MLF was perfect, as the wine was protected. I used SO2 one one part but not another, so I have two styles for each white wine. I find the part with no SO2 has more fruit expression.” In the spring, he rolled the barrels twice to have more lees in suspension, for protection “and to give a more rounded feel to the whites.”
“The terroir is there and the balance is there. For the reds, we need more time to refine the tannins. Our philosophy is long aging. I use more 350-liter barrels for whites now, and will continue to increase the proportion of these barrels.” Reds have 35% new oak, and the whites 25%. For the reds, Frédéric is also using some 750-liter amphora (about 5%): “I like this for the freshness.
Usually, in a warm vintage we bottle the reds with 750–1000mg of CO2, and maybe we will do so this vintage as well, because the acidity is not high and the pH is 3.7. The CO2 is more for the fruit expression.
“The 2024 reds have a gentle color and red fruits—strawberry and raspberry—and a gentle palate, too. It’s a classic vintage, with more red fruit than in 2023, so it reminds me of 2000, maybe be with a little more structure on the finish. The whites have a beautiful expression of white flowers and citrus notes, and lovely acidity, but not too much. I would compare with them with the 2000s, which were always charming. And maybe the 2013s which had similarly charming and expressive aromatics.
“You can have a lot of early pleasure from the 2024s, while you can keep the 2022s and 2023s. But you might also remember that the 2000s have aged very well. People drank most of those young, but they have aged better than expected, and even a simple Monthelie can be lovely now.”
Bouchard’s cuvées have been divided between Domaine Bouchard and a new entity, Domaine des Cabottes. Mickael Baroin, who was on Weber’s team for ten years as an enologist, will become the new technical director for Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils, while Frédéric will manage the new domaine, the wines from which will be made and matured in Puligny-Montrachet (see a separate entry for these).
Beaune
Clay and marne soil. A late-ripening terroir, so the domaine often finishes the harvest here. Splashing with citrus fruits. A nicely rounded and juicy palate, with a lemon-slice freshness to finish. 2027–30. 86
Beaune du Château Premier Cru
From five premiers crus, the largest of which is Les Aigrots. Expressive, white peachy fruits, to a rounded, slightly plump palate with some floral notes. Generous, but there is freshness, too. 2028–32. 92
*Beaune Premier Cru Clos St-Landry
From 2ha (5 acres) and the oldest vines, where, since the 13th century, Chardonnay has been planted on the white soil, around which Pinot Noir was planted on the red clay. Two hectares and. Sapidity and freshness. A cooler grip and lightly rounded body. Has bite on the energetic finish. More savory than fruity. 2028–34. 92
*Meursault Les Clous
From a parcel of 6ha (15 acres) at around 1,000ft (300m) on a slight slope. A greenish tint, with a touch of pea-shoot on the aroma. The palate is racy, salty, and straight. Pithy. 2027–30. 89
Red
Beaune du Château Premier Cru
Warm, summer-fruit aroma, with soft tannins and just a line of acidity. Delicate, open-textured, and lightly rounded, somewhat floral to finish. 2027–31. 90
Savigny-lès-Beaune Premier Cru Les Lavières
Wild-strawberry aroma, then a soft and delicate palate, with fine, crisp, delicate tannins. A cool line, with aromatic red fruit to finish. 2027–32. 90
Beaune Premier Cru Marconnets
From a 2.3ha (5.7-acre) parcel on the north side of Beaune, mid-slope, with a relatively high proportion of clay in the soil. Black pepper on the nose. Succulent, juicy, and attractively smooth, just lightly chunky, with a little robust grip to finish. All very easygoing. 2027–32. 91–92
*Beaune Premier Cru Les Teurons
Blueberry-fruit aroma, with a touch of licorice. Ripe fruit, with more austerity, clip, tension, and edge to the palate. Crunchy and biting. I love this style. 2028–34+. 94
MAISON CHAMPY
The former Domaine Laleure-Piot supplies estate fruit for Maison Champy. I particularly like the En Caradeux white. Some reds from Pernand-Vergelesses and Beaune feel a bit rustic, but there’s a standout red from Île des Vergelesses—very good indeed.
Technical director Dimitri Bazas used some systemic sprays during the 2024 growing season. He did a more severe débourgage of the juice than usual for the whites and bâtonnage once a week. He chaptalized by 1% to reach 13% ABV for the whites and 12.5–13% ABV for the reds. The fruit for the reds was destemmed, apart from the 50% whole-bunch used for the Beaune Premier Cru Aux Cras and the Corton, which I didn’t included in my selection. Reds had lighter extraction and shorter maceration than usual, with aging for 12 months in barriques, of which none were new. Dimitri finds both colors “classic and fresh,” comparing the whites to the 2007s, and the reds to the 2021s.
White
*Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru En Caradeux
From a southeast-facing parcel that runs parallel with the road, opposite En Charlemagne. I like this savory, earthy wine, which shows some grip. It has a tacky texture and a burliness, with a bitter fennel finish. Pleasing rusticity. Wine for food. Appeals to me. 2026–32. 88–89
Reds
Bourgogne Pinot Noir Cuvée Edme
From parcels below Volnay plus a little from Ladoix. A light and pleasantly fruity wine, with blueberry sweetness, a light, rustic texture, and a herbal puff to finish. 2026–28. 83
Beaune Vieilles Vignes
The vines for this are more than 80 years old. Dark and quite stewy on the attack, with licorice fruit mid-palate and quite chunky, rustic tannin. There is matter from these old vines, but the wine is a little short on charm, at least for now. 2028–32. 85–86
Pernand-Vergelesses Clos de Bully
On marly limestone this vineyard takes a long time to ripen. Lightly chewy and robust. Savoury with a certain earthy grunt. Plenty of character, but straightforward. A traditional Pernand. 2027-32 83/4
*Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru Île des Vergelesses
Lithe and silky. Fine texture. A cool, light, and elegant line. A silvery, mineral quiver through the palate, and a light floral waft on the finish. Spot-on for typicité. I like this a lot. 2028–24. 90
BENJAMIN LEROUX
“Some growing seasons are easy. This was difficult… but I have seen worst,” recalls Ben Leroux. (He may be alone in this opinion!) “What’s painful for the team is not the same for the vine. When you have difficulty, you pay attention.”
Ben focused in 2024 on good settling of the juice for the whites, but also settling the juice pre-ferment for reds, a technique he began in 2021. “Frankly, it has changed things a lot.” He doesn’t like to rack (settle) and return during fermentation, so tackles the bourbes pre-fermentation by decanting the juice from the tank before fermentation. There is no juice where whole bunches are used, of course, so this is only for destemmed fruit, which will release some juice immediately, or where only a small quantity of whole bunch is used. “We started in 2021 and in 2024 it was a really good thing to clean the juice. We did it for whites, so now we do it for reds, too, and this improves the purity of the juice.”
The vines were sprayed 15 times, even though Ben kept the amount of copper lower than many organic producers use. For élevage, he is now using more 450–600-liter and 600-liter barrels, with thicker staves; 42–46mm (1.6–1.8 inches) is normal for 600-liter barrels, but he is moving to 60mm (2.4 inches), which makes them more durable as well as more reductive. He pointed to a 500-liter barrel, with staves only 22mm think, which had cracked. There are also glass globes of various sizes.
The estate is now 9.1ha (22.5 acres) in total. Ben owns 5.3ha (13 acres) and the remainder is leased.
Ben has produced delicate and precise whites in 2024.
White
Bourgogne Aligoté
From two vineyards below Meursault, 35 and 60 years old. Fresh and juicy, with a fizzle to finish. 2026–28. 83
Bourgogne Aligoté Les Grands Champs
This 96-year-old vineyard brings extra depth and richness, along with a super-appetizing tannic bite. Very good Aligoté. 2026–30. 85
Bourgogne
The fruit comes from below Meursault on both sides of the village. Aged in 12hl foudres Super-fruity and energetic, with a bright minerality to finish. Top-notch. 2026–30. 85
Auxey-Duresses
From vines on the slope going up from the road to Macabrée and to the top on the Meursault border in Les Hautes. All in foudres. Bright and vibrant. Zesty lemon twirl mid-palate. And nicely pithy/bitter to finish. 2027–32. 86–87
St-Romain Sous Château
All in foudres. Slippery and mineral. Wet-stone and juicy. Smooth and fresh to finish. What a delight. 2027–32. 87
Meursault Narvaux
“Vignes de Jean” will be on the back label. Dedicated to Jean, now deceased, former owner of this little garden-like parcel at the top of Narvaux. From 0.1ha (0.25 acre) of vines, so potentially two barrels a year, but just one 300-liter barrel in 2024. A little went into the village wine. It was not the most perfectly kept vineyard, but now that Ben is farming it, the full potential can be explored. Sure and savory, light-bodied, with an anise and bitter-almond note, which brings a bite. Quinine and saline finish. Quite a delicate Narvaux. 2027–31. 89–90
*Meursault Vireuils
Three barrels and one demi-muid. Floral aroma. Sherbet attack, shimmering, bright, and energetic. Slightly saline to finish. Light and straight. Hint of lime zest. Spot-on. 2027–34. 90
Meursault Blagny Premier Cru La Pièce Sous Bois
From 1.7ha (4.2 acres) of this vineyard. Super-savory and tense. Straight, tight, and shaley; sea salty to finish. 2028–32. 92
*Meursault Blagny Premier Cru La Piece Sous Bois 1950
From a parcel planted in 1950, the first vines Ben bought, separated out from the main cuvée since 2014. Bottled only in magnums. It is little richer and sweeter and juicier to finish. 2028–32. 92–93
Meursault Premier Cru Charmes Dessus
From 0.2ha (0.5 acre) of vines, part of the estate, but leased. Quivering, bright, and linear. Swift, crisply edged, with a shimmery, salty finish. Lively tension. The first grapes to be picked, on Friday, September 13. 2028–34. 95
*Meursault Premier Cru Genevrières Dessus
Pink and white floral notes. Delicate and yet intense, with a pure, crisp, and aromatic palate. This will be transferred into glass globes for the second winter. 2028–33. 95
DOMAINE DU PAVILLON (BICHOT)
White
Beaune Premier Cru Clos des Mouches
Quite a punchy attack. There is light muscle and earthiness in this Beaune premier cru, cut with citrus freshness. Promises quite a lot up up-front but is rather faint to finish. 2027–32. 88–89
*Meursault Les Criots
I like the grip and bite and texture—not from oak but from the terroir. Some breadth and piquancy. It has a miso, salty, savory character and appealing focus and energy. Really rather good. Should cope with some bottle age, to boot. Appeals to me. 2026–32. 89–90
*Meursault Premier Cru Charmes
Fresh and lively attack. Straight and neatly defined at the edges. Decent intensity mid-palate. A salty, citrus core, and it holds its line to a fresh and smooth, mineral finish. Sleek. 2027–34. 93–94
Red
Pommard Clos des Ursulines
Quite soft and creamy up-front, with Pommard grip and bite as undertone. I like the tannic bite and the granite hint to the finish. This is quite straightforward but it has good balance. Everything adds up to present a very appealing village Pommard. 2027–30. 87
*Pommard Premier Cru Rugiens
Tight and zesty, with orange peel and cardamon. Delicate for Rugiens, crisp and piquant. Peppery finish. Quite light but relatively well-sustained. I like the blood-orange notes and nervosity. 2027–32. 93–94
Volnay Premier Cru Santenots
I find this Santenots less enticing than the Pommard Rugiens, but it will probably appeal more widely: more seductive and sumptuous; thicker, fuller, and richer. The finish is well-sustained. There’s good typicité. 2027–32. 93
