VOUGEOT
DOMAINE HUDELOT-NOËLLAT
Charles Van Canneyt made 70% less wine than usual. He started harvesting on September 18. All the fruit was destemmed. “I saw the pH was higher. Stems would be a catastrophe.”
“Good ripeness, so nothing to sort. More delicate grapes and the skins were a little thinner.” Charles bought eight small tanks to make his one- and two-barrel cuvées. “It’s not easy to control the temperature in small tanks. Long maceration was important to extract the polyphenols. At the end, we saw the volume and structure.” He makes a cold maceration for a week at 50ºF (10ºC) followed by délestage, during which he can adjust the temperature of the juice, refreshing at the beginning, warming at the end. He doesn’t have any temperature control in the vat. At a density of 1040 he does pigeage. “I wanted less extraction in 2024.”
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“I was much more comfortable with small volume in 2024 than in 2021. We can compare the two vintages only in yield. The 2024 has better balance, quality, and ripeness. Everything is better except the yield.”
Charles uses only Cavin barrels, having experimented with other coopers and always finding that he preferred the wine in Cavin. New oak is 15% for village wines, 30% for premiers crus, and 50% for grands crus. I tasted mainly from once-filled barrels. It is lovely oak, but even in a one-filled barrel it is quite prominent.
“The wines have changed recently in a good way and I will rack them at the end of November [2025], as they are almost ready, and I will then keep them in tank for the winter. I like the freshness, purity, and precision of the vintage. I much prefer 2024 to 2023,” remarks Charles.
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Charles’s style is fruit-driven and sumptuous, with a light gloss of oak.
Vosne-Romanée
Super-succulent and juicy, with a good depth of fruit. Svelte tannins and freshness to finish. With plenty of Vosne personality, this is his best village wine. It has body and plump fruit concentration. Greater intensity and ripeness than his village Chambolle and finer tannins than the Nuits. 2027–32. 90
Vougeot Premier Cru Les Petits Vougeots
Two barrels of the usual ten. Ripe raspberry aroma, but also rather perfumed. Plentiful fruit, with vibrant pomegranate on the attack. Just enough substance. The tannins are very firm and crisp but wrapped in a sweetness of ripe, red fruit. It extends nicely onto the finish. I prefer this to the Clos de Vougeot. Better to have a good premier cru… 2027–34. 92
*Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Beaumonts
From a parcel situated higher on the slope. Much more elegant than the Nuits Murgers, and it has more density and intensity than the Chambolle Charmes. It’s fresh. With a sophisticated, silky sleek texture, this ripples onto a lightly rounded, svelte mid-palate and stretches into a streamlined finish. 2027–37. 94–95
*Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Suchots
From a lower parcel in Suchots. Three barrels of the usual nine. Full-bodied. Plenty of tannin and matter. Grunty, grippy, and compact. Good punchy vigor, and there is power to finish. 2027–27. 95
*Romanée-St-Vivant Grand Cru
Three barrels. Of Charles’s wines, this clearly outshines everything. Dazzling purity. Lucid, perfumed, and singing. Such refinement. Marvelous intensity and a fabulous finish. Certainly among the finest wines of this vintage that I tasted. Terroir will out. 2028–38. 98–99
2024 Burgundy: The summer of tough love
2024 Burgundy: A guide to the villages and vineyards
2024 Burgundy: Côte de Nuits tasting notes—Marsannay and Fixin
2024 Burgundy: Côte de Nuits tasting notes—Gevrey-Chambertin
2024 Burgundy: Côte de Nuits tasting notes—Chambolle-Musigny
