Stephen Brook: Rich peachy nose, ample fruit. Distinctly sweet, very ripe, even confected, but then there's a whack of acidity that overwhelms the palate. Eye-watering and not very pleasant. Odd, since the fruit itself tastes ripe. 11

Jancis Robinson: Deep gamboge. Tangy, full nose. Very ripe limes. Aggressive acidity and rather sherbetty fruit. Not fine, though certainly arresting. Quite sweet and very slight ly loose. 15.5

Alexander Scott: Here is another super-ripe wine, with almost a sense of sweetness on the palate. This has all the rich ness of white Burgundy, probably more, rather like the Montrachets of yore that were effectively demi-sec. Is this the product of a relatively deep and fertile soil? Plenty of carnal pleasure to be had here, if without the more intellectual properties of some. Carl Orff rather than Bach. 17