Stephen Brook: Lean nose. ripe grapefruit, not very expressive. Quite rich, juicy, plump; plenty of ripe fruit, but the acidity is a bit green and assertive. One-dimensional, with moderate length and little complexity. 13.5

Jancis Robinson: Full, gummy, evolved. Rather brassy appeal even now. Lots of fruit - so much so that it's difficult to see the acidity. A bit too developed for its own long-term good? Very slightly flabby. 13.5

Alexander Scott: Here is a step up in class, I think. Luscious fruit quality, soft-textured palate, but sustained mid-palate interest and a lingering finish. with more clarity than the preceding few wines. Rather beautiful. in a relatively understated sort of way. Great harmony. This is that lovely rich-toned horn theme in Brahms's second piano concerto. 17