Stephen Brook: Reserved nose, waxy, peachy, with a touch of pineapple, too. Rich, broad, opulent, quite concentrated; a bold rather than subtle style, but there is good acidity to give it persistence; plenty of tropical fruit on the finish. Good length, if just slightly claggy on the finish. 17.5

Margaret Rand: Cut-grass and coffee nose, vegetal and flowery. Palate creamy, relatively light, but good concentration of fruit—a note of baked bananas. Rich, elegant, and complex. Finish is enormous. Could be drunk with great pleasure right away. 18.5

Jancis Robinson: Golden. Fiery, middle-European, ripe peachy richness to this cut, with really spot-on, finely etched acidity. Bravo! Very racy, yet with great ripeness and richness. Difficult to discern much actual flavor in this embryonic liquid, but the balance is certainly there for a promising future. I get a sense of the vineyard here—not that frequent a sensation at this level of ripeness. Drink 2013–25. 18.5