Stephen Brook: Broad, apricot nose, hint of figs. Rich, creamy, lush, but has an attractive fluidity and a bracing acidity that make this appealing to drink. Accessible, but has the structure to hold and improve. Not a great or complex wine, but very attractive. 16.5

Margaret Rand: Very smoky, mineral nose; quite sweet, but light at the same time. One feels it could do with a little more muscle to support the sweetness, but the firm backbone is there. A characterful, quite earthy wine with a long, vigorous finish. 17

Jancis Robinson: Some very fine spritz. Some suggestion of gum or glue on the nose. Nice fresh fruit—almost blossomy—though certainly no more than regular Auslese level. A bit pinched on the finish. Bright and contained, though hardly fleshy. Still very simple. Lots of cooking-apple acidity. A little bit dead on the finish. Drink 2012–21. 16