Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: A fresh wine, with a crisp, clean, citrus nose and a leggier, more fluid mid-palate than most. Far more notable for its stunning finish, exquisitely poised between sweetness and acidity. Very promising all in all. 16

Margaret Rand: Exotic tropical fruit; pineapples. Plenty of sweetness and a big, rich finish. 17

Michael Schuster: Rich and round, but lively middleweight. Sweet without being intensely so, and with the typical ‘fat-waxy’ Semillon character of this Semillon-dominated wine. Honey and lemon purity, well-sustained flavour, quite complex and with good length. Always ages well, always represents good value. 15.5