Nicolas Belfrage: Deep colour. Not immediately Sangiovese on the nose, with some plum and some nut. Full and quite rich on the palate, but with a kind of international style that is neither fish nor fowl. Good wine for the guides. 14

Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Firm, rich, chocolaty nose. Opulent, rich, succulent palate of plums and cherries, with ample acidity and tannin. A lean aftertaste but not astringent. Still youthful and has a lively finish. Good length. 17.5

Alison Buchanan: Almost but not quite opaque black ruby with a ruby rim, with Venetian-glass brilliance. Very sweet candy-fruit note, but a bit too much banana for me, and blood pudding with overly sweet vanilla-cream flavours. A big wine, modern in terms of concentration and extraction. 15