Nicolas Belfrage: Deep-colored, aristocratic-looking wine of considerable presence in the mouth, compact with a firm tannic backbone and an unashamed bitter hit on the finish. Quite long. Drink from 2019. 92

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to thin tawny rim. A touch closed on the nose, with layered black-fruit character and oriental spice undertones. Round, mature, medium to full-bodied palate, refined tannins, perhaps a tad overripe on the finish. 92

Andrew Jefford: Deep, clear black-red. Warm, sweet, multilayered, and comforting: rich fruits, fur, and a truffley sweetness. Hard not to plunge in after smelling this. On the palate, too, this is very plush and sweet and brocaded, with very ripe fruit but with a great armful of summer-roasted tannins, too, to give that sweet fruit shape and sense. Perhaps not the most traditional wine on the table, but packed with pleasure for all that. 90