Nicolas Belfrage: Mid-depth, almost bright. Aromatic, almost medicinal herb coming through on the nose. A bit slack on the palate, acidity slightly tacked on. Not particularly long. Almost metallic touch on the finish. But has character; needs parts to come together. Drink from 2017. 15.5

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to tawny palate. Mature, complex nose of small black and red fruit, smoke, dried meat, and dried roses. Full body, with sweet black fruit well balanced by the lively avidity. A broad-style Sangiovese with good presence. 16

Andrew Jefford: Saturated, dense red-black. A very ripe scent; Sangiovese tiptoeing into Grenache territory. The plums here are almost prunes. At the same time, though, there is plenty of the commanding force of the place, and its intrinsic refinement, too; it’s a head-turner. The palate confirms everything the nose suggested—so, in this glass we have a very generous, broad-contoured, almost bosomy Brunello, with copious, sweetly ripe intricacies. Purists might sniff, but I’d enjoy drinking this a lot, and the Tuscan genes ensure that there is nothing simple or trivial about the wine. By the finish, it has reverted to type, and you can taste the stones and the forest and the acorns. 16