Nicolas Belfrage: Deep, almost opaque. Surprisingly floral on the nose. Has the fresh, mouthwatering acidity that is the hallmark of this vintage, but plenty of amarena cherry fruit to go with it. Good length. Drink from 2017. 17

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to pink rim. Open, mineral, and black-fruit nose: blackberries and cinnamon. Round, mature, and full-bodied palate, with big tannins and lots of personality. Long and firm finish. Not sure this is my style of Sangiovese but definitely a very good effort. 17.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep, dense black-red. Warm, earthy, dark, truffley, snouting in the dark—the wine equivalent of the voice of Richard Burton reading the opening of Under Milk Wood. Very ripe, with rather pruney fruits, but very beguiling. On the palate, this is very sweetly fruited, perhaps more than any other wine on the table, almost prune and peach, and the generous tannins are sweetly constituted, too. Very low acidity for a Tuscan site, and a paean of praise to the ripeness of the vintage. I think it is completely and utterly delicious, and those tannins provide all the balance you might want, but it is not a wine I’d recommend to a classicist. Glorious stuff nonetheless. 17