Nicolas Belfrage: Deep, almost opaque. Well-established sourcherry nose, with lanolin hinted at behind. Soft and sensuous in mouth, yet with good redeeming side-to-side acidity. Wasn’t expecting great things from the color and nose, but the palate certainly delivers. Brunello of the bigger style, yet with equilibrium. Drink from 2018. 16.5

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to tawny. Slightly closed blackfruit nose, with dried prunes, raw meat. A touch rustic. Green palate with simplistic fruit. Fairly short. 14.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red. A little dry; plenty of the coffee-roaster’s shop about this, and a kind of apothecary perfume, too, but less fresh fruit than some. On the palate, though, it is a splendidly concentrated wine, and a wine of magnificent ripeness, full of solar force, as if every grape had been spatchcocked and roasted. I was disconcerted by the wine at first, but the longer I spend with it, the more I like it: great raw materials and a first-class constitution. Give it time, and I suspect it will reveal hidden depths. All that holds me back from a high score at this stage is the fact that so much of its undoubted excitement is articulated around that flamboyant ripeness. Amazing concentration here. 17.5