Nicolas Belfrage: Very deep color, again verging on opaque. Cherry fruit of some intensity on nose and palate, but more Morello than sour cherry. Oak comes through, quite a mouthful with strong tannins and firm acid backed by muscular fruit. Plenty of potential; give it five years. 16.5

Stephen Brook: Reticent nose, with hints of smoke and tobacco. Rich and opulent, very concentrated with firm but ripe tannins. Has power and a slight baked character that suggests it is from the southern end of the region. But it seems very complete and harmonious, with a sweetness of fruit that at the moment is at odds with the tannic grip, though that will resolve itself with time. I like the mix of sensuousness and depth, and its length of flavor is impressive. Fine potential. 18

Andrew Jefford: Deep, glowing black-red. Warm, rounded, and earthy: that soft suggestion of leaves, crushed acorns, and minced bark that makes Brunello so attractive. Nonetheless, a slight sense of containment here. Vivid, ripe, earthy, searching: lots of good things culled from the forest and mingled with ripe though bright red fruits and a veal shin or two, simmered down into a concentrated jus. Not necessarily an easy wine at this stage, since it is tight sewn, but in a year or two all that expansiveness will be opening up, and it will be a fine, thought-provoking bottle. A long if, at present, grippy finish, again full of those autumn-leaf and oak-bark resonances. 16