Nicolas Belfrage: Deep, nearly opaque. Lots of fruit on the nose and palate, but lots of chunky tannins, too. Lacks the aromatics of some. 15.5

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to pink rim. Mature, clean, broad black-fruit nose, with cassis and hints of mint. Medium to full body with clean fruit. The finish is a touch simple. 15

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red. Very hauntingly sweet; it has the classic creamy plum I associate with this vintage, but it also seems to have an aniseed sweetness, too. Pretty and ubiquitous; there is a prodigious volume of aroma here. On the palate, this is a concentrated and beguiling wine, but it is one of those that flirts with jamminess, and I sense classicists will find it wanting. There are impressive, beautifully soft tannins that, for me, do some of the work of the missing acidity, but you couldn’t call it vital. Nonetheless, I would love to drink it—soon. Not a wine for long keeping. 15.5