Nicolas Belfrage: Medium deep with slight turn. Inviting plum and cherry aromas on the nose. Lots of creamy ripe fruit on the palate, with some savory angles as well. Lovely balance of concentrated, ripe, sweet fruit and firm mouthfeel. Delicious now but should last well. 17

Bruno Besa: Garnet to ruby; pink rim. Intense, clean, complex, red-fruit nose, with morello cherries and orange marmalade. Medium body, a touch simple on the palate, yet super-clean and very well made, with mature fruit and firm tannins. Probably needs time to show at its best but at present a touch one-dimensional. 16.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red. Warm, comely, with ripe and roasted fruit scents, a little hawthorn flower, and some leaf-litter and bay complexities. Touch of animal, but that aside this is a super nose: beautiful Tuscany in a glass. On the palate, wow: What a wonderful Brunello this is. It’s very masterful from the off, seizing your attention with lush fruit, brighter acidity than many (but such ripe acidity, such fruit-saturated acidity), and aristocratic, uncompromising, but supremely resonant tannins. The finish is superbly composed and lasts for most of a minute. Despite its concentration, it is wonderfully open-pored and scrutable. A Brunello that Barolo lovers should try before they finally decide who the president of Italy really is. (I say this here because the tannins are stupendously good, and you then realize that Barolo doesn’t have a monopoly on stupendously good tannins.) Limitless Tuscan purity and class. Bravo! Encore! 18.5