Nicolas Belfrage: Deep, almost opaque. Somewhat neutral on nose. One of the most backward wines in the tasting, which is not a bad thing—none of the overblown, soup-rich style that seems characteristic of some. This is more lean and understated; needs more time than others: Drink from 2018. It should end up more interesting than most. 16.5

Bruno Besa: Deep ruby to garnet. Broad, cassis-like nose, with some aromatic herbs. Medium to full body; clean but fairly short and simple. 14.5

Andrew Jefford: Dense black-red. Exuberant, primary fruits, with lots of oak-softened but nonetheless thrusting blackcurrant. Vivid and lively on the palate, but it’s a fruity wine that doesn’t quite sing its origins or quite live up to the nobility of the name. Nonetheless, there is plenty of chunky, generous pleasure here, and it’s a red wine I would be happy to drink any time. 14