Nicolas Belfrage: Quite deep but bright. Elegant if restrained aromas. Firm acidity and some grip, hint of bitter, finishes a bit sour, fruit hidden. Needs two to three years. 13

Stephen Brook: Closed nose. Lush and rounded, perhaps a touch too soft in texture for a young Brunello, but there’s ample tannic grip. Indeed, there’s a hardness on the mid-palate, though I’m sure it will diminish or disappear in time. The required components are all there, but there’s a lack of freshness that shortens the finish. Sound but unexciting. 15

Andrew Jefford: Clear, deep garnet. Exuberant, warm, sweet-fruited, fleshy, almost caramelly scents; attractive if unrefined. As the aromas suggested, this is indeed an exuberant, ripe, round-contoured Brunello with lots of central-palate width and some flavory complexities: licorice root, crushed walnuts, dried herbs. It’s at an attractive stage of development, with all the intensity and impact of the vintage on open display, yet without many forbidding austerities. The question mark is refinement, but there is much otherwise to enjoy. 14.5