Nicolas Belfrage: Color already oranging on the rim. Herby, funky nose (in positive sense), a wine of complexity, with sour-cherry fruit mingling with firm tannins. A little astringent now but has promise for the future; could become a very fine bottle of the traditional style. 90

Bruno Besa: Light garnet to tawny. Refined, clean, superelegant nose, with small red fruits, tobacco leaf, Bing cherries, leather, mineral, and complex. Balanced palate, with mature, firm tannins and a long, clean, herbal finish. My kind of wine... A joy to drink even now. 95

Andrew Jefford: Light and clear by comparison with its peers. Graceful and refined—fine vellum, glove leather, sunlit wooden furniture, funghi porcini. Lovely scents: very subtle and disarming. The fruits are there, but so far, note, from prominence: very instructive for winemakers from elsewhere. Beautiful aromatic jointing. On the palate, this is slightly drier (ie, less fleshy) in style than some of its peers but again close-knit; firm and dense; elegant and refined. There is a freshening acid balance and deftly managed tannins. Outstanding Brunello provided you don’t hanker after midpalate flesh or any sense of sweetness. 95