Tim Atkin: Mid-garnet. Savory, sweet, developed nose, with a hint of reduction. aromatic, well balanced, but that reduction is there on the palate, too. The oak is also a little too intrusive, with some dry tannins. a wine that needs more fruit? 13

Nicolas Belfrage: Medium depth. Perfumed and mysterious, as incense in church. beautifully balanced wine, with no excesses; very expressive, with sweet fruit on the finish and side-to-side flavor. Drinking now, and high hopes for longevity, given the acidity. Very fine. 18.5

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to tawny rim. Developed, a touch rustic on the nose, with cedarwood, leather, and cherry jam. Mature, fairly decadent palate, not very long. 14